ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

[Disco69]

I know that I've heard folks talk about this, so I did some research on prices at various places in town. Mel posted up the part numbers so here is what I've dug up. Mind you this is keeping the OEM drag link and ONLY replacing the tie rod. Below are the best prices that I've found and where they were found at:

Tie Rod End (Moog# ES3096L): $38.99 at Carquest
Adjuster Sleeve (Moog# ES2079S): $22.99 at Carquest
Tie Rod (Moog # DS1312): $70.99 at Carquest

Additionally, Nate tuned me into http://www.rockauto.com. Their prices were the lowest, but with shipping it was about $12 more than Carquest, locally. It's definitely an option though if Carquest is out of the parts since with shipping, it is $20 cheaper than NAPA and $24 cheaper than Shucks.

[akhillbille]

Wow I spent way less than that when I did mine up here. If I remember I spent barely over $100. Did you check out bullet proof steering? Their stuff isn't the cheapest but it is way beefier than any others and cheaper than alot. You could also find a zj in the junkard and get the sleeve and rod then only have tobuy new rod ends. I wouldn't use used ones though.

I did the tie rod swap for a cheap part time replacement. Once I swap axles a completely different steering will go on. I've given it one heck of a beating and it has lasted. But I've moved to the mentality of do it once and do it right. So you have to figure out what you want and where you want to end up and what it takes to get you there the easiest and cheapest.

[The_Ronster]

Is that with a "military discount"?

[Disco69]

No, that is strait off the shelf price.

[akhillbille]

I found my reciepts and it was $121.57 from Napa a few years back.

Here is a rhd drag link if you want to also do the OTK setup. Kind of pricey. Bullet proof could probably make you one with the right bend or just straight for about he same and it'd be better. http://www.cyberjeep.com/prodinfo.asp?number=52006582

And here are the weld in inserts needed.
http://www.cyberjeep.com/prodinfo.asp?number=52006582

[Disco69]

Well, I'm gonna try and throw this thing on this weekend. Am I correct in assuming that I can do this with the vehicle on the ground? I'm guessing I just pull it into the garage, straiten the wheels out, pull the old one off and put the new one on. That seems too simple, to me. Anything I'm missing?

[99TJ]

Be sure to check your toe in afterwards.

[Disco69]

Be sure to check your toe in afterwards.

I'm gonna have an alignment done on it afterwards, anyway.

[The_Ronster]

just bring it over when your done.

[Disco69]

Will do. I gotta find some jack stands too. I wanna put my front lower control arms at the same time.

[The_Ronster]

may have some time Friday afternoon, not sure yet.

[Disco69]

Sounds great. I'd love to get the Tie Rod and Arms done ASAP.

[The_Ronster]

actually, if you want to swing by and pick up the jack and stands thats fine too.

[Disco69]

That would be excellent. I'll give you a call tomorrow. I'm still at work now.

[rpiereck]

I can contribute and help you guys too. I got all the time in the world Friday.

[jeeptj333]

i can be there to help a little just give me a pm, i just cant do any heavy lifting

[SamuraiMike]

I found a trick to align the steering wheel...

Leave the tires on the ground & don't "force" them anywhere.

Assemble the rods and evenly adjust them to fit the holes.

To straighten out the steering wheel, simply start the vehicle (tires on ground!!!) and turn the adjuster on the drag link (rod to steering box) until the steering wheel is nice & straight. The power steering will help you do this.

The only adjustment is toe in, (IMO) don't waste your money on an alignment just to get the toe in set. Measure the toe in before & after, mark the tires, adjust to the same distance & roll with it.

[akhillbille]

Correct Ged. Leave the rig on the ground to do the swap. Make sure you grease the TRE good. Also try not to destroy the boots. I have a pickle fork if you want to borrow it in aiding getting hte old stuff off. And do what mikey said, that's how I got my steering wheel straight.

[Disco69]

Can you bring the pickle fork to the meeting today, Mel?

[naturalbornmudder]

I stopped using a pickle fork and started using the BFH on the side of the knuckle. The TRE usually falls right out. Having siad that, I have a pickel fork to use if need be...

[akhillbille]

Sorry couldn't make it to the meeting. I can bring it to work fri with me and drop it off to you afterwards maybe. I too have used the bfh method but after bending a knuckle I stopped.

[Disco69]

Just wanted to close this out. It went on without a hitch. It was ironic, the toe in was spot on as well. Thanks for the info and the help.

[rpiereck]

Good stuff, I am considering this mod too, how much did it come up to in the end?

[Disco69]

I know that I've heard folks talk about this, so I did some research on prices at various places in town. Mel posted up the part numbers so here is what I've dug up. Mind you this is keeping the OEM drag link and ONLY replacing the tie rod. Below are the best prices that I've found and where they were found at:

Tie Rod End (Moog# ES3096L): $38.99 at Carquest
Adjuster Sleeve (Moog# ES2079S): $22.99 at Carquest
Tie Rod (Moog # DS1312): $70.99 at Carquest

Additionally, Nate tuned me into http://www.rockauto.com. Their prices were the lowest, but with shipping it was about $12 more than Carquest, locally. It's definitely an option though if Carquest is out of the parts since with shipping, it is $20 cheaper than NAPA and $24 cheaper than Shucks.

This much...