The Bronze
02-16-2009, 09:42 AM
1989 to 1995 Suzuki Sidekick and Samurai Code retrieval/meanings/definitions:
The Check Engine Light (CEL) was illuminated on the Sidekick I recently bought. I had hoped it was the Scheduled Maintenance Light that had triggered it like described in the preceeding post, but no luck. Time to get out the tools. :tools:
Not really, the only "tool" you will need is a small jumper wire, paperclip or in my case a handy piece of MIG wire. ;)
To retrieve the codes, you will need to jumper two wires in the diagnostic link connector (DLC). This connector is the wire 4 wire connector sitting in front of the battery. It should have a black cap on it. Here is an example:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=110
1) Turn on the ignition key to ON
2) Remove DLC cap
3) Connect the terminals B and C. When looking at the white connector, place the external tab so it faces up and you will be connecting the upper right (PIN B) and lower left pin (PIN C). Here is an example, although I replaced the skinny, hard to see wire with something a little thicker:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=131
4) Observe the CEL on the dash. It should be flashing (a flash(s) a one second pause a flash(s). It will list each code and then repeat them continuously until the jumper is removed. For example: one flash...1 sec pause...two flashes equals a code 12. In my case, I had: one flash....1 sec pause...three flashes which equals code 13. See the link below to the suzuki non-obdii code list
http://www.frozenaxles.com/showpost.php?p=484&postcount=1
In my case code 13 is for the Heated O2 sensor circuit. A rather common failure item, especially when subjecting the 600 degree sensor to water, snow and ice. :( This specific sensor is a 4 wire sensor employing a seperate heater circuit (power and ground), a signal wire and a signal ground. It is an easy diagnosis usually, and this one was no exception.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=132
Here is the O2 sensor connector, wrapped around the vacuum line signal hose to the brake booster. This is why a good visual inspection should be done first of the circuit in question. This vehicle had a body lift on it, and I suspect is was removed when that was being done. Here is the mating connector, under the ignition coil:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=133
The connector has been reconnected and as soon as I finish the water pump installation, I will give her a test drive and see what happens!
The Check Engine Light (CEL) was illuminated on the Sidekick I recently bought. I had hoped it was the Scheduled Maintenance Light that had triggered it like described in the preceeding post, but no luck. Time to get out the tools. :tools:
Not really, the only "tool" you will need is a small jumper wire, paperclip or in my case a handy piece of MIG wire. ;)
To retrieve the codes, you will need to jumper two wires in the diagnostic link connector (DLC). This connector is the wire 4 wire connector sitting in front of the battery. It should have a black cap on it. Here is an example:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=110
1) Turn on the ignition key to ON
2) Remove DLC cap
3) Connect the terminals B and C. When looking at the white connector, place the external tab so it faces up and you will be connecting the upper right (PIN B) and lower left pin (PIN C). Here is an example, although I replaced the skinny, hard to see wire with something a little thicker:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=131
4) Observe the CEL on the dash. It should be flashing (a flash(s) a one second pause a flash(s). It will list each code and then repeat them continuously until the jumper is removed. For example: one flash...1 sec pause...two flashes equals a code 12. In my case, I had: one flash....1 sec pause...three flashes which equals code 13. See the link below to the suzuki non-obdii code list
http://www.frozenaxles.com/showpost.php?p=484&postcount=1
In my case code 13 is for the Heated O2 sensor circuit. A rather common failure item, especially when subjecting the 600 degree sensor to water, snow and ice. :( This specific sensor is a 4 wire sensor employing a seperate heater circuit (power and ground), a signal wire and a signal ground. It is an easy diagnosis usually, and this one was no exception.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=132
Here is the O2 sensor connector, wrapped around the vacuum line signal hose to the brake booster. This is why a good visual inspection should be done first of the circuit in question. This vehicle had a body lift on it, and I suspect is was removed when that was being done. Here is the mating connector, under the ignition coil:
http://www.frozenaxles.com/picture.php?albumid=7&pictureid=133
The connector has been reconnected and as soon as I finish the water pump installation, I will give her a test drive and see what happens!