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naturalbornmudder
10-16-2009, 08:03 PM
This all started with a no-start diagnosis with The Bronze. My 99 TJ wouldn't stay running once it fired up. Then after a few tries, it would not even fire at all. We checked the fuses and found that the 25A fuel pump fuze(supposed to be 20A so someone put a heavier fuze in) was popped. So I did a quick check by swapping similar relays to make sure that the relay was also not burnt. The relay was good and the fuze was bad, so I swapped in a new fuse and it fired right up. At this point, I am ready to claim victory when Kelly says "you know you are still going to have to replace the fuel pump, right?" Well, in fact I did not know that, however Kelly quickly explained to me the reason the fuze kept popping is because there is too much resistance on the fuel pump mechanism which makes it draw more power to work, therefore popping the 20A and eventually the 25A fuze.
I picked up a fuel pump and decided to leave the remaining module and gas guage float intact. I started to drop the fuel pump which also entailed taking the filler hose and gas cap neck off, dropping the nuts that keep the tank in place, and lower it slowly onto the deck. Here is where the trouble comes in. The pressurized line is held on by a special captive fuel line mechanism. See below:


What fitting is this?

http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG00075-20091016-1957-1.jpg

So first I needed to relieve the pressure from the fuel system by depressing the Schrader valve under the hood on the fuel rail. Next was a quick run to the parts store for a multi-pack fuel line quick release tool. Use the tool to pull the blue tabs away from the line, press in on the fuel line to get it to release from the fuel pump module. Then I dropped the tank.

naturalbornmudder
10-16-2009, 08:07 PM
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/504/gas1.jpg

http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/504/gas2.jpg

The_Ronster
10-16-2009, 08:41 PM
follow the line back, there should be a disconnect, what you have there is the terminal end of #6

naturalbornmudder
10-17-2009, 06:00 PM
tank is down. Bought cheapo quick disco tools. Anyone got a clue how to remove the nylon nut without the high dollar specialty tool>?

AKMark
10-17-2009, 06:39 PM
I've done it, hard to describe it though.

naturalbornmudder
10-17-2009, 06:50 PM
I ended up using a brass punch and a hammer to tap the ring around in circles to loosen it. Tank down. Module out.

The_Ronster
10-17-2009, 07:49 PM
ganna be back together for tomorrows run?

naturalbornmudder
10-17-2009, 09:21 PM
Took the module out of the tank, disassembled the module, replaced the fuel pump, cleaned out the tank screen, lubricated the tank gasket with white lithium grease, and re-assembled.
Whomever designed the white screw-on nylon nut should be hung by their arms and flogged repeatedly. It took no less than 1/2 hour to get the nut to thread on right.
Once on, I used the floor jack to keep the tank in place while I aligned it, put the filler and overflow hose back on, then lifted the tank into place and bolted it back in.
10 or 15 seconds of cranking and the engine fired up and surprisingly enough had a bit better throttle response.