The_Ronster
02-16-2009, 07:55 AM
Seat Heater Install Write-up:
I finally got the rostra seat heaters installed in the FJ today. It was a very easy install, I didn’t always follow their directions, but I think I have a better end product with less hastle than what the factory suggested, so, on with the show.
I first started by running a constant power wire from the battery back into the cab compartment. The instructions called for using a wire tap on a wire in the drivers side kick panel, but 1, I don’t use wire taps, and 2 I wanted the ability to use this wire on future applications. You can see from the next two pictures that I used wire loom and ran the wire through the main factory harness just above the drivers left foot resting pedal.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/701d25498c88abf3ffe1208e9f466b8f_114.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/d3834bfdd31a6246c611921b7b7d7f2b_115.jpg
Once I had the constant 12V wire ran, I tapped into the accessory wire coming off the ignition switch. I then connected the red and green wires from the kits power supply harness with solder then taped and split loomed them up. This harness runs under the drivers side of the center console, it was easy to just tuck it under as I ran it down towards the drivers seat.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/89d78683328fa48bb88a4c65efdbb5fa_120.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/b6f1d5d1085c9f1e81367ccc166ffd0e_119.jpg
Next, I popped out the blanks and installed the prewired switches. It was easier to temp remove the shifter boot and fish the switch wires back then to try and dismantle the console.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/cd7b3190fd35995e7011c3ab2c972629_118.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/34067de3614beb3bd770d515b2ada4f4_117.jpg
Next, what is normally the pain in the butt part of installing the seat heaters, the pads install. I removed both seats and took them in the house so that I could watch the VP debate. I had them both installed before the debate was over if that gives you any timeline. I learned the hard way that its easier to cut the hog rings and replace them with zip ties. Keep this in mind if you work with seat covers and you will be much happier. First, I started by reclining the seats all of the way back and flipping them upside down. The back cover comes off by unhooking 2 bungee style hooks. Once you have these undone you can easily see the hog rings that you need to cut on the backrest and seat bottoms (pictured here)
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/5d52cec2f737cd5509d3b5cead1cdbc5_123.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/7a3b7aab320b5e5b9814658c66a8b185_122.jpg
Pull out the metal rod from the seat covers and flip the seat over. You can now easily pull the seat bottom and back rest covers out enough to stick the heater pads in.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/6011e0b59d43dab5d529c7cb5259b4c5_125.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/f71ef1db6b88319f9d5318d0deea5ef0_124.jpg
The bottom pad power wire is easier to push through the seat bottom than to route out the back and around. I used a screwdriver to start a hole in the foam then used my finger to open it up and fish the power wire through.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/fe8c446fbb1a2803af87e7b452e465fb_126.jpg
With the heater pads in place, the only thing left to do was to put it all back together. Here is where its nice to have zip ties! Put the wire back through the fabric and zip tie it to the seat pan and backrest cushion. Clean up your wires and install the control module by zip tying it to the springs in the seat pan. I took my time and tied everything up tight because I didn’t want anything moving around once the seat was installed.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/af965443bb81c12600b6135610151e20_127.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/67e9e2f31e281e06e85b84c472a65211_128.jpg
Now all that is left is to put the seats back in and test it out. Make sure to leave yourself enough harness to allow the seat to move fully forward and back during adjustments. Connect all of the plugs, bolt the seat back down and your in business.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/6bc1738f25b19c29f36181425e8c5e07_129.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/c1cac6d7eff4a6abedf052284bb74a35_121.jpg
Total time was about 3 hours with this kit. It’s made extremely well, and the pre made harnesses make it pretty much plug and play. There were terminal ends supplied with the kit, but as I stated before, I don’t like wire taps, and I know the connections are good when solder is holding them together.
A couple of things worth mentioning about this kit. First, the controller gives you the option of having back heat alone or both pads working together unless you cut the external loop which will give you low and high heat settings in both pads at the same time. The kit also comes with its own pre wired fuses. There is one for each seat making troubleshooting a breeze. The switches look factory which is why I ordered this kit. They do stick out a bit more than I would like, but its not really that big of a deal, and it does make the switch easier to locate in the dark
I finally got the rostra seat heaters installed in the FJ today. It was a very easy install, I didn’t always follow their directions, but I think I have a better end product with less hastle than what the factory suggested, so, on with the show.
I first started by running a constant power wire from the battery back into the cab compartment. The instructions called for using a wire tap on a wire in the drivers side kick panel, but 1, I don’t use wire taps, and 2 I wanted the ability to use this wire on future applications. You can see from the next two pictures that I used wire loom and ran the wire through the main factory harness just above the drivers left foot resting pedal.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/701d25498c88abf3ffe1208e9f466b8f_114.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/d3834bfdd31a6246c611921b7b7d7f2b_115.jpg
Once I had the constant 12V wire ran, I tapped into the accessory wire coming off the ignition switch. I then connected the red and green wires from the kits power supply harness with solder then taped and split loomed them up. This harness runs under the drivers side of the center console, it was easy to just tuck it under as I ran it down towards the drivers seat.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/89d78683328fa48bb88a4c65efdbb5fa_120.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/b6f1d5d1085c9f1e81367ccc166ffd0e_119.jpg
Next, I popped out the blanks and installed the prewired switches. It was easier to temp remove the shifter boot and fish the switch wires back then to try and dismantle the console.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/cd7b3190fd35995e7011c3ab2c972629_118.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/34067de3614beb3bd770d515b2ada4f4_117.jpg
Next, what is normally the pain in the butt part of installing the seat heaters, the pads install. I removed both seats and took them in the house so that I could watch the VP debate. I had them both installed before the debate was over if that gives you any timeline. I learned the hard way that its easier to cut the hog rings and replace them with zip ties. Keep this in mind if you work with seat covers and you will be much happier. First, I started by reclining the seats all of the way back and flipping them upside down. The back cover comes off by unhooking 2 bungee style hooks. Once you have these undone you can easily see the hog rings that you need to cut on the backrest and seat bottoms (pictured here)
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/5d52cec2f737cd5509d3b5cead1cdbc5_123.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/7a3b7aab320b5e5b9814658c66a8b185_122.jpg
Pull out the metal rod from the seat covers and flip the seat over. You can now easily pull the seat bottom and back rest covers out enough to stick the heater pads in.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/6011e0b59d43dab5d529c7cb5259b4c5_125.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/f71ef1db6b88319f9d5318d0deea5ef0_124.jpg
The bottom pad power wire is easier to push through the seat bottom than to route out the back and around. I used a screwdriver to start a hole in the foam then used my finger to open it up and fish the power wire through.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/fe8c446fbb1a2803af87e7b452e465fb_126.jpg
With the heater pads in place, the only thing left to do was to put it all back together. Here is where its nice to have zip ties! Put the wire back through the fabric and zip tie it to the seat pan and backrest cushion. Clean up your wires and install the control module by zip tying it to the springs in the seat pan. I took my time and tied everything up tight because I didn’t want anything moving around once the seat was installed.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/af965443bb81c12600b6135610151e20_127.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/67e9e2f31e281e06e85b84c472a65211_128.jpg
Now all that is left is to put the seats back in and test it out. Make sure to leave yourself enough harness to allow the seat to move fully forward and back during adjustments. Connect all of the plugs, bolt the seat back down and your in business.
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/6bc1738f25b19c29f36181425e8c5e07_129.jpg
http://www.frozenaxles.com/gallery/data/509/c1cac6d7eff4a6abedf052284bb74a35_121.jpg
Total time was about 3 hours with this kit. It’s made extremely well, and the pre made harnesses make it pretty much plug and play. There were terminal ends supplied with the kit, but as I stated before, I don’t like wire taps, and I know the connections are good when solder is holding them together.
A couple of things worth mentioning about this kit. First, the controller gives you the option of having back heat alone or both pads working together unless you cut the external loop which will give you low and high heat settings in both pads at the same time. The kit also comes with its own pre wired fuses. There is one for each seat making troubleshooting a breeze. The switches look factory which is why I ordered this kit. They do stick out a bit more than I would like, but its not really that big of a deal, and it does make the switch easier to locate in the dark